Jun 2006

Mike: Yesterday, we left our sand beach oasis at Point Santa Maria and sailed the 20nm to the south east entrance for Elizabeth Harbour. From there, it was about 2nm through reef and sand bar infested waters requiring Alison (bow babe) to be point person at the bow while we advanced at a miserly pace based on instructions from her. As our sailor friends already know, this is George Town. Also known as Chicken Harbour owing to the many sailors that venture south, this point is the last of the easy sailing points on the way to the Caribbean. From here, the going is southeast toward the Virgin and Leeward Islands. Right into the prevailing winds. The distances get greater between landfalls necesitating overnight passage making. Bruce Van Sant, the author of the book "A Gentleman's Guide To Passages South", dubbed it 'The Thorny Path'. Many never go any further, concerned with weather windows and all manor of other foibles. So this is as far as they get. They stay and enjoy the company of numerous others in the same situation. There's daily volley on the beach and endless pot lucks.

We anchored just off from Regatta Point, and while the crew put the dingy together, I got shined up, possibly even looking respectable for the customs and immigration folks who were in need of a visit. This was taken care of without difficulty or delay, but the cruising kitty took a hit with the $300US fee. Still, I'm not complaining, the weather's great, we've sailed practically the entire way with the fuel tank just starting to show below the full mark, the spinnaker's been full and the crew is working well together although I wonder whether I'm getting my fair share of the rum rations.

Today will be a day of floating. No wake up call was set for rise and shine this morning. Just sleeping in as long as we wanted. The guide book suggested that there was a cruiser's net, but we couldn't find it. About 9:30am, a dolphin and her young pup appeared beside our boat and entertained us with hours of cavorting around the boat. Check out the pic. Alison and I wasted no time in getting in the water with our snorkel gear and underwater camera. You'll all have to wait for those shots since they're 35mm. While they didn't come up close to us like they do at Marineland, they came well within camera range. The hams! The young one was especially playfull, leaping out of the water and landing on her (his?) back. It's incredible to hear the sounds that they make. Awesome!

Lunch was had over at the Peace and Plenty - a great resort with great food and reasonably priced. Tonight, we'll hang out here at George Town and tomorrow we'll move over to the anchorage at Stocking Island to see what sort of mischief we can get into there. We'll be here now for a number of days awaiting the arrival of a fifth crew member, Ann, who's Bill's S.O.

We haven't posted in the past few days due to internet difficulties, but having access to high speed internet allowed Alison and I to upload some of the pics we'd taken over the past two weeks and post them up to the blog. They're put under the section that's appropriate, so you'll need to scroll back and take a gander.

Regarding the outboard engine problem, I had fashioned a replacement gasket and installed it. I'm happy to report, that so far my amateur fabrication and repair is working well. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's a lasting permanent repair.

Lastly, we'd like to thank everyone who emailed us regarding the tropical storm (Alberto) that was brewing in the gulf. We did know of it from the daily weather reports and forecasts that we collect via satellite each day. It was hundreds of miles to the south west and never a threat.

Alison: It's hard to believe that we are actually here in George Town. We've heard so much about George Town from other cruisers and now we finally get a chance to experience this place for ourselves. Although, after navigating our way in, we did wonder if it was called Chicken Harbour because people, once into the harbour, need to gather their courage to navigate themselves out. It is beautiful, with a turquoise waters and sand beaches. Of course, the momma dolphin and her baby were the hightlight of the day.

We said good-bye to our newly made cruising buddies, Steve and Wendy on Obsession. While we're spending a number of days here, they are heading off for the Florida coast.

Tonight, it's off to shore to sample Bahamian cuisine. But before that, it will be an afternoon siesta and then before dinner drinks onboard. Yes, it is a tough life!

Mike: 13 June
We're now at Point Santa Maria at the north end of Long Island. We're just a short sail now from George Town. We'd actually planned other stops, but based on the winds and seas, stop overs such as Rum Cay just weren't going to happen, what with their east and south exposed anchorages.

This evening, we met up with our buddies from last night, Steve and Wendy from Obsession, and collectively put together a feast aboard their ketch. The stars were all out and we were even able to eyeball track some satelittes as they crossed the sky. The moon rose about 10ish adding to the atmosphere. The party continued 'till almost midnight at which point our contented crew, now totally played out, headed for our bunks.

Mike: 12 June
Today's sail took us from Landrail Point on Crooked Island to Clarence Town on Long Island. Departing at about 8am and with a clear blue sky and 10 kts breeze, we were able to average 6kts through 2-3' following seas for the 38nm passage. Arriving in Clarence Town in mid afternoon, we set the pick in 6' of water over sand in calm water. No sooner had we finished anchoring when a large ray swam under out boat.

A short while later, the next boat over from us (actually, the only other boat in the bay), came over and offered us some hospitality on their boat. Their names were Steve and Wendy and they'd been living on their 42' center cockpit ketch rigged Robertson-(something) for the past six years. They had a playfull and excitable young dog named Coco who just couldn't get enough of Alison and a parrot called Azul that had a colurful vocabulary and kept us entertained. Steve and Wendy are on their way to the US coast (like us) but are fast tracking covering as much distance as possible each day (not like us). As the sun set over this pristine achorage, we bid our new friends farewell and safe travels and headed back to our boat to make supper which consisted of chicken on the barby and fixin's along with a bottle of wine. It's amazing how at 10pm, nobody's able to keep their eyelids open.

Mike: 11 June
We slept like logs. The anchorage at Atwood harbour on Acklins Island was as calm as if we had been tied up at a slip. Somewhere around 9am, we finally mustered and got underway. Destination: Landrail Point on Crooked Island, an island anchorage of about 34nm distance to the west. Winds were light at less than 10kts and dead astern. The seas were relatively calm the entire trip. Today's highlight was the stingray that we disturbed as we dropped the hook in 13 ft of water over sand. So far, no other boats have passed us on our travels. We pretty much own the water.

Sitting at anchor enjoying a bottle of Shiraz, we watch the moon rise and illuminate our surroundings. Someone wondered about what might be happening back home. Frankly, nobody cared.

Tomorrow, we continue on our journey to Clarence Town on Long Island. It's only about 30nm distant so this should be an easy sail.

10 Jun

Mike: We left the Turtle Cove Marina just after noon yesterday. Because of the planned passage to Atwood Harbour on Acklins Island was only 115nm, by leaving at noon, we expected to arrive shortly before noon the following day, in excellent light for navigating in through the reef here. Of course, the tide was just about at it's lowest and wouldn't be rising again until after 4pm. We could have left earlier, but we needed to settle up with the marina and do some last provisioning. So once again, we bottomed on the way out of the channel from the marina. For those contemplating visiting this marina, there's no laundry, showers or restroom. In fact, there's nothing. Just sand. And you'll be paying premium pricing. They only provide 240V so if you need an adapter, it'll cost you for two days since they rent them from 12am to 12am. There's a minimum charge for water and electricity, even if you don't use or want them. Lastly, they don't like sail boats. We found this out as we casting off the dock lines. The manager was on the dock and let us know in
no uncertain terms that 'rag fliers' were nothing but trouble. I guess we don't buy enough fuel, water or electricity while sitting in one of their slips.

Anyway, the sail throughout the night was smooth and we averaged 5kts while passing south of Mayaguana, north of Plana Cays and into Atwood Harbour on Acklins Island. There was one other cat in this bay ringed by beach and favoured by clear blue waters. After getting the hook set into the sand in 6' of water, the call of the warm water beckoned, so a snorkelfest was launched. The bay wasn't teaming with marine life but we did see colourfull Caribbean fish (don't ask me what kind), sea cucumbers, conchs and even a manta ray. Life is good!

Part of my afternoon was spent fabricating a new gasket for the outboard. In order to get it down from Toronto, I had to separate the power head from the shaft. What I should have done was pack a new gasket, but you who know me will understand. I'd tried to reuse the old one but it blew out on the first hard run. Lots of noise and exhaust. So I'd picked up some gasket material at an auto shop in the BVI and it was only today that I actually found the time to fabricate and install it. When I try it out on the dingy, I'll let everyone know whether I'm a mechanic or not.

Tomorrow, we expect to head over to Landrail Point on Crooked Island, a distance of less than 30nm.

Bill: We are finally in the Bahamas. I have never seen such unspoiled beauty. Can you image sailing in heaven. Sailing in ocean waters the colour of indigo, gentle breezes and then to come into a beautiful bay and not a soul in site. No hotels on the beach, no roads; just absolutely nothing except crystal clear waters the colour of turquoise. Later this afternoon I saw a stingray swim by just off the bow of the boat. I could spend forever here. We celebrated with a bottle of champagne tonight. So far, as of today, we have travelled about 650nm which is approximately 2/3 of the trip and the boat has not beat anyone up yet. Gee Dave, no stubbed toes.